When I began telling people that I had decided to come back to India for the months of January and February, they immediately began telling me how much the place has changed. We’ll see.

The last time I was in India, I was young, living in what was arguably a suboptimal situation, and spending my days tucked away in a small school in one of Delhi’s slums. I had moved to India to pickup some international development work experience before beginning graduate school. I was young, full of idealism and southern sensibilities, excited to begin work. After only 4 months, these things had been sucked out of me. I began to believe that human nature was inherently bad and corrupted by power. I began to believe that there were people who only wanted a better life position given to them free of charge. I began to believe that every man only saw a woman as an object to be possessed, and that every Indian was out to take me for all that I was worth just because I had blue eyes. For me, this was a shocking change of perception.

As I moved on and time passed, I could look back on my experience with softened eyes and pull out more of the positive moments and lessons. During my time, I had met some of the most sincere and generous people ever, mostly on trains and when traveling by myself. And I cannot forget that the girls with whom I worked had a strength and light about them that inspired me to no end. Unfortunately I still remember how that light seemed to be stamped out in most of the adults I encountered.

The juxtaposition of my experiences allowed me to become more confident in my beliefs on international development (that effective development can only take place with the direct involvement and ownership by local actors) and prematurely, but beneficially, knocked some of that young naiveté out of me. Never again would I encounter a place or culture and not look for the unapparent side, the full context. Never again would I take for granted the hope that is created by youth (in life experiences, not age). Never again would I be happy doing something that doesn’t make an impact.

Whether or not India has changed since the last time I was here, India has changed me. I think with that new consciousness, this time around will have to be different, and hopefully, will change me anew.

La Dolce Vita

From this angle you might question the quality of La Dolce Vita’s pizza. Thoughts like… “maybe they put masala in the sauce?”, “perhaps the cheese is made with yak milk?”, or “is the crust really just a roti with improvised toppings?”… might pop into your head. But behind that sign is a real brick oven and in the kitchen there is the echo of beautiful northern Italian accents.  Yes, the vino is only Goan, but the menu, sauces, and service are full fledged Italian. In the small town of Agonda, where almost every restaurant has the same menu, the culinary options here are a quick breath of fresh air.

Christmas in Agonda Beach

My first Christmas away from home – it would be a little strange in any case, but add to it all the wonderful delights that come with being in India and you have quite the eclectic holiday experience. In Goa Christmas is celebrated on the 24th. Everyone puts on his or her best sari or shiny suit and heads out to church for midnight mass. The whole town takes on the air of a street party. Christmas carols serenade rooftop yoga classes. Fireworks explode over the beach. And the streets are lined with lit paper stars hanging from palm trees. No white Christmas here, but if you like a sea breeze with your twinkle lights, you’re in the right place.

Dear India.

I was so excited about returning to you. I wasn’t sure of what to expect, but so far you have not led me too far astray.

10 minutes in Mumbai — I have already had 50 rupees stolen from me by the government employee at the pre-paid taxi stand and seen two men urinating in plain view on the street, but only been heckled once. And India, that was through my taxi window so we both know that it hardly counts. Maybe you have changed since last time I was here!

But not to fear! 24 hours later I had paid 500 rupees too much for a SIM card and phone plan, been followed at length in the market by a man bent on asking me if I needed help apparently until I would relent and say yes (India, I never relent when we visit), and had to fight with a taxi cab driver about why the 120 rupees that were on his meter when I got into his cab were not mine to pay. Oh India, I have missed your warm embrace!

The one thing I can say for sure is that if you haven’t changed, I most certainly have. Being seven years older than the last time I was here seems to make me a little less of a novelty. Six years out of the sugary south and four years in NY have made me more streetwise and less questioning of my own instincts.

India, we might yet succeed at turning this love/hate relationship into a lifelong, warm, mutual affection. I am looking forward to it.

Yours (well… Sicily, Greece, and Antarctica have a part of me too, but don’t worry. I am big enough to share.),

Renee

When a man from the Middle East comes to visit and brings sweets from his favorite Middle Eastern sweet shop, and that sweet shop happens to be right around the corner from your house, you have to take note. That is how I found Al Sham.

Nestled among a street full of hooka bars and Halal grocers, this unpretentious little shop offers melt-in-your mouth baklava, delicious date cookies, and creamy chocolate dipped cashew straws. Trust me, it is worth the ride to Queens.